Places

Vredefort Dome

by Leon Benghuat

A meteorite larger than Table Mountain slammed into the ground at breakneck speed near what is now Vredefort in the Free State. The resulting thousand-megaton blast of energy was nature's equivalent of a nuclear catastrophe. Except that in this case, life was probably kick-started by the development of oxygen and multicellular life linked to the impact.

Excavating a crater 90km wide and 20km deep, the explosion and shock wave pulverised the earth's rocky innards, injecting shard of granite and dolomite, and forming - among other things - a huge rock-like done, known today as the Vredefort Dome. Concentric circles also cascaded outwards from the hub of the explosion, resulting in a huge mountains in an otherwise flat landscape throughout the North West Province and the Free State.

A climb of about a kilometre up the granite rock known as the Vriedefort Dome offers an unrestricted view of the mountains and hill around it. Many scientists believe the rich gold and diamond deposits found in a concentrated belt throughout these two provinces, many also be amibuted to the huge explosion. Two thousand million years later an the Vredefort Dome Conservancy - as it is now known - is a breathtakingly beautiful place, an outdoor adventurer and tourist's dream. However, it is still relatively unknown, event in South Africa.

A little background dig into the Domeland's ancient past reveals that the area has a circular ground plan with at least three ring extending outwards. These rings cover an area of approximately 150km. Although much of the crater rings have eroded with rime, a spectacular part can still be seen in the beautiful outcrops near Parys in the Free State and Potcheftstroom in the North West Province. Nowhere else in South Africa will you find so many clear horizontal and chronological layers so close to the surface in vertical shape - a nearly perfect half-moon.

Just a couple of kilometres away, the surrounding mountains make the vicinity look like something fro the Boland. A visitor to Thabela Thabeng - one of the largest guest farms in the Conservancy - may be forgiven if he thinks he has been transported back to paradise. A paradise that is a mere one-and-a-half-hours drive from Johannesburg. Geologically speaking, this area is probably one of the most unique sites in the world. It is the oldest of the three largest meteor site on the earth. The other two are in Mexico and Canada. It is also the best preserved impact site of its size, and has captured the fascination of scientist all over the world.

The Dome Conservancy houses a finely balanced ecosystem. A great diversity of habitats exist, including open plains, bushveld and reverie bush Valleys, ,mountains and ravines with abundant flora are found within the 150km circular ground plan. At least 99 plant species have already been identified, of which the world's largest Olive Wood Three forest is probably the best known. This forest comprises thousands of indigenous Olive Wood Trees tucked against the slopes of the mountains. Typical bushveld trees like the Spekboom and the Red Ivory are also found.

The area is considered an important birding area with over 450 species already identified Blue Jays, grey loeries and eagles criss-cross the pollution-free skies. The area contains as many identified butterflies as are found in the whole of Great Britain, and is also home to relatively uncommon animal species, such as the rooikat, aardwolf, leopard, several small buck and the endangered rock dassie. Baboon, of course abound. Historically the "Big Five" were also found here and plans are under way to reintroduce them into the area.

Local guest farms offer plenty of activities for visitors. Apart from the usual game viewing birding, fly-fishing, angling and canoeing, visitors seeking an adrenaline rush can do white water rafting on the Vaal river, which flows through the Domeland. Or, for the ultimate rush, they can abseil from Baboon's Rock Scenic drives, hiking, horse riding, 4x4 routes and mountains biking are also high on the adventures agenda. And for anyone with a taste for something different, there's witblits and mampoerl.

Because of the Dome's unique topography and proximity to the Vall River, I has been and important area for ancient communities throughout the ages. Recently, and exciting new arcgaeological find was made with the remains of a young woman was uncovered at the "Askoppies: a large refuse dumps created by Iron Age settlements, Flower-shaped kraal foundations have been discovered as well as remnants of an ancient hunts. Archaeological excavations are still under way at Askoppies, as well as in many Stone Age coves that have been found in the surrounding mountain.

Thabela Thabeng's owner Johannes van der Merwe, explains that white people only settled in the area in about 1820. "our forefathers come here after the last Matabeles were killed or chased away towards Rhodesia: he says "But ever since then, we have tried to preserve this pristine landscape."

And it hasn't always been easy - Even this majestic area wasn't spared the wrath of Kitchener and the British troops during the Anglo-Boer War of 1899-1902. The mountains hide stories of General Christian de Wet and Lord Paul Methuen and the battles and nearby Schoemansdrift and Tygerfonteind And much, much later, World War 2 Itallian prisoners helped local farmer build bridges and buildings A small cemetery bears witness to an incident in which one of these Italians tried to escape across the Vaal River. When it became clear he wasn't going to make it, five others tried desperately to save him. Tragically, all of them drowned.

Farm names in the area all have a district meaning. Take Tierkloof for instance. The current owner, Boer Schoeman, relishes the tale of how the farm got its name, His great-great grandfather, Martiens Schoeman, was a goat farmer. A leopard which the local inhabitants mistakenly called a tiger - lived in the mountains and occasionally preyed on Martiens goats. "Mertiens eventually got fed-up" says Schoeman. "One night, when the tiger returned, he fired a shot from his muzzle-leader and wounded it, It jumped on him and bit Martiens on the left hand.

"He managed to knock the leopard unconscious with his right hand, and went home where be treated his imputes with honey and shot of mampoer. Hence the name Tierkloof." Schoeman, along with more that 90% of the landowners in the area, is a member of the Dome Conservation Trust. The Trust came into being six years ago with the specific task of protecting it from the threat of mining activities, and having it declared a World Heritage Site as soon as possible.

The mining threat has passed, and now the community is completely focused on the World Heritage Site programme is UNESCO initiative which seeks to protect natural and cultural properties of outstanding universal value against the threat of damage in a rapidly developing world," explains Stephen de la Harpe, Convenor of the Vredefort Dome World Heritage Initiative ring Committee. "There are currently almost 600 natural and cultural site protected world-wide, including Robben Island, the Lucia Wetland, Sterkofntein in Kromdraai and Swartkrans and environs." De la Harpe says that the Dome and surrounding areas fulfil all the criteria set by UNESCO for inclusion in the World Heritage list. It has already been nominated and a application to be declared as such, is in process.

"Unfortunately, this could take as long as another two years to compete."

This article was originally published in Prime Club